For season 4 of his ephemeral restaurant in Paris, Créatures, chef Julien Sebbag inaugurates a breakfast menu with the creations of pastry chef Shin Rayieu. A moment of pure happiness.
He hasn’t slept much. The day before our meeting, chef Julien Sebbag – notably at the head of Créatures – celebrated in this hut-style restaurant, perched on the roof of Galeries Lafayette and offering a breathtaking view of Paris. Despite this short night, he did not deviate from the breakfast ritual. “From 7:30 a.m. to 8:30 a.m., my whole team knows not to disturb me. It’s the only meal I eat at home. I prepare everything myself, I pamper myself, he insists. And if I’m on a trip, I’m ready to cross a city to discover a breakfast that has been recommended to me!
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It is therefore only natural that Créatures, an ephemeral summer address, has reopened for this season 4, with an offer of cakes for breakfast that can also be ordered throughout the day. “In the morning, I like softness, color. This sets the tone, says Julien Sebbag. But we can want that at another time. Our cakes can therefore be enjoyed at any time. This is the spirit of the London bakeries which offer, from morning to evening, on their wooden displays, all kinds of pastries “just like at home”. With Shin Rayieu, the pastry chef to whom he entrusted the mission of developing the sweet creations, they agree on the fact that they have reproduced at Créatures what they do at home.
Shin has carte blanche. She prepares every day what she wants with seasonal products
Julien Sebbag, chef of the Créatures restaurant
“Shin has carte blanche,” explains Julien. She prepares every day what she wants with seasonal products. She works a bit as if she were going to receive friends. Shin confirms: “It’s impossible for me to offer customers what I don’t want. I admire sophisticated pastry, but I have a penchant for simplicity, recipes that are immediately identifiable. Those displayed on the counter illustrate this point: fruit pies, banana cake, chocolate cake, cookies… These are the stars of the restaurant. “And it’s my breakfast staple,” adds Shin. A cookie, lots of filter coffee, and life is good!” Julien Sebbag completes his unchanging “cappuccino, large yoghurt with homemade granola, a drizzle of mountain honey and seasonal fruits” base with a cake. “Right now, and when possible, I save myself one of Shin’s rhubarb puff pastries. They are wonderful ! As she does not have a rolling mill to make her puff pastry, she can only make small quantities, which makes them even more exceptional.”
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I admire sophisticated pastry, but I have a penchant for simplicity, recipes that are immediately identifiable
Shin Rayieu, pastry chef
Pleasure and sharing
This approach is in perfect harmony with the Créatures philosophy. “I created this concept because I couldn’t find any convincing vegetarian addresses,” explains the chef. They were too gourmet or too healthy. So I imagined a place with generous, gourmet dishes and a rather naive relationship with the product. In the plates, no fuss, no sleight of hand. Everything is clear, good, easy. We go out, we have eaten well. There is also the idea of sharing in the dishes, of course, but also in the atmosphere with, behind a large bar, the brigade that officiates for all to see. Shin also went through the kitchen first, so she knows the codes of the restaurant. As Creatures closes in winter, Shin participated in other adventures… before returning for this new edition. “With her, in 2022, I wanted to bring something different. I didn’t have enough know-how to seriously approach sweets. She did it. And that allowed us to enrich the dimension of pleasure at Créatures.” And when you see the customers crowding around the tables, smiling, you understand that they don’t shy away from this pleasure. A feeling boosted by mismatched crockery and furniture evoking a happy playground. “Here, we are like in a big playground, concludes Julien. Everything is playful and fresh.”
Creatures, at 6e floor of Galeries Lafayette Haussmann, 25, rue de la Chausée-d’Antin, 75009 Paris. creatures-paris.com