Street food is coming home

In the fresh section of supermarkets and in the bins of the big frozen food chains, burgers, nuggets and other Asian skewers are carving out good market shares. But the trend is to cook these recipes yourself from elsewhere, eaten in complete relaxation at the table or on the sofa!

Books are multiplying on the subject and specialist manufacturers even offer, for less than €50, household equipment such as a rotating spit to perfectly grill the meat of a homemade kebab or an accessory to heat soft bread and knack sausages from the hot dog!

Dishes from all over the world

Street food takes many forms depending on the region from which it originates: pizza fritta in the alleys of Naples (turnover topped with tomatoes and cheese, cooked in an oil bath), currywurst in Berlin (sausage cut into sections, drowned under two torrents of ketchup and curry sauce, with fries), unmissable British fish & chips (breaded and fried cod as well as crisps soaked in vinegar) or banh mi in Vietnam, a baguette sandwich with liver pâté, raw vegetables, aromatic herbs and pickles.

There’s also Tel Aviv’s signature falafel, these balls of deep-fried mashed chickpeas (made with cumin, coriander, paprika, raw onion, garlic and a good amount of parsley). Not to mention the Mexican tacos, tortillas (corn flour pancakes) served with meat, onions, cilantro, hot sauce and the essential lime juice.

→ PODCAST. Pizza, a great classic, adapted by Jean-Luc Gadreau

Formerly a street meal, inexpensive and easy to eat without cutlery, street food has become the fad of prestigious chefs who have sophisticated recipes by combining high quality products. Thus the gourmet kebab at Grillé à Paris is simmered with homemade bread, veal from star butcher Hugo Desnoyer, subtle sauces and vegetables from Annie Bertin. The baos of starred chef Adeline Grattard (Yam Cha in Paris) are also marvels of refinement: they are small buns stuffed with vegetables and meat and then steamed.

In Lyon, the city hosts the Street Food Festival every year. Note also the creation of the Food Traboule, a food court that offers on-site or take-out quenelle fries, lobster hot-dogs, waffle sandwiches, all prepared by renowned chefs from the capital of gastronomy.

Newcomers to cooking vocabulary

Before embarking on these homestyle recipes, plan to review the glossary of new popular dishes. The grilled cheese is a distant American cousin of the croque-monsieur. The base is sandwich bread with a filling of cheese, meats and vegetables. The snack is colored in the pan before being tasted crispy and hot.

Another sandwich terribly in tune with the times, the Japanese sando, which often includes a thick slice of grilled or breaded pork between two very soft milk breads. The Benchy brand in Paris declines its graphically spectacular sandos with eggs, pastrami or even fruit.

Let’s finish this overview – not exhaustive as there are so many specialties – with pan-fried buns which are small buns, like baos, but not only steamed. A frying pan, like Japanese gyozas, gives them a delicious crispiness.

In my library

The beautiful work produced by Stéphanie Iguna from the Food Factory and Cyril Montégu from the Buvette lyonnaise, Street food in Les Gones, highlights the Lyon region through original street food recipes (€25, to order on streetfooddesgones.fr).

Also, The Big Book of Snacking presents 80 recipes explained by three great chefs, elected Meilleur Ouvrier de France, Christian Ségui, Patrick Ogheard and Arnaud Nicolas (Ducasse Éditions, €49)

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The recipes

► Pan-fried buns with cardoons and Saint-Félicien

Recipe taken from Street food in Gônes

For 4 people

For the bun dough

200g rice flour
200g wheat flour
24 cl of water at room temperature
2 pinches of salt

For garnish

320g chard
320 g of pre-cooked cardoons
160 g Saint-Félicien
2 tbsp. sesame oil
3 tbsp. water

For the sauce

3 tbsp. sesame oil
1 C. soy sauce
2 tbsp. lime juice
A few sprigs of fresh coriander

Peel the cardoons, cut the stems and steam them. Reserve them. Mix sesame oil, soy sauce, lime juice and finely chopped coriander. Also book.

In a bowl, mix the flours and salt, then add the water. Mix by hand to obtain a smooth and homogeneous paste. Cover the bowl with a damp tea towel and let rest for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the stuffing. In a hot pan, pour a drizzle of olive oil, brown the finely chopped chard leaves for about ten minutes over low heat.

Add the sliced ​​cardoon ribs and a small trickle of water. Season with salt and pepper and continue cooking over low heat for a few minutes.

Make 8 dough pieces. Roll out each piece of dough into a disk about 10 cm in diameter, ensuring that the edges are thinner than the center. Place 1 to 2 tablespoons of filling in the center of each disc, add a generous piece of Saint-Félicien then close the dough by pinching the dough edge to edge to form a kind of turnover. Repeat with each circle of dough.

Heat the sesame oil in a large frying pan, brown the pan-fried buns on both sides, flattening them slightly. Pour water halfway up, cover and cook for about 10 minutes over high heat, until the water has completely evaporated.

Remove the lid and continue cooking for 2 minutes on each side. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve immediately.

→ RECIPE. With stew, learn the flavors of time

►Quenelle hot dog

Recipe taken from Street food des Gones

For 4 people

For the “loaves”

4 Lyonnaise dumplings

For the Comté cream

12 cl heavy cream
70 g of Comté

For garnish

4 frankfurters
20g mustard
40g ketchup
60g fried onions
A few sprigs of chervil

Preheat the oven to 190°C. Make a cut on the dumplings lengthwise (being careful not to cut it all the way to the end). Place the dumplings on a baking tray lined with baking paper and bake for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat some water. When it boils, add the 4 frankfurters to the pot, then cook for 6 minutes.

In a saucepan, mix the cream and the Comté, then let melt over low heat for 10 minutes.

Take the dumplings out of the oven and score them. Add a generous spoonful of Comté cream, the frankfurter, a drizzle of mustard, a drizzle of ketchup. Sprinkle with fried onions and garnish with a sprig of chervil.

→ PODCAST. Thierry Marx: “Cooking is something to look at, think about and eat”

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